Open a French jewelry design history
Recently, a famous French jewelry brand Chaumet appeared in Shanghai, portman plaza opened its first store. The names of napoleon closely connected with the French royal jeweller has 200 years history, in order to make known as the crown jewels Chaumet senior representatives of the French top class gem with pride, and the craft’s Derier), kadeya zunjue (Cartier (advanced), raise the family jewels of all the French are important birthplace of adornment creed emotional appeal.
Chaumet at different periods of the museum collections, those significant changes in style, open a delicate France jewelry history. While in fashion, Chaumet between hub with afore-mentioned a few big brands, and advanced customization dress, firmly cemented Paris as the European and world three centuries of fashion centre.
To the ART DECO style from empire
The 1780s, young jewelry and horological production artisans, Mali, nieto etienne just created a jewelry in Paris, the predecessor of the Chaumet workshop. Because in making jewelry aspect, nieto talent in the mansion of 1802 napoleon was appointed to the royalty jeweller, his wonderful artical excelling nature “crown” is in this period. Josephine 1804 crowned queen napoleon, nieto gunsmith made famous for its branches of laurel crown after. It was later after many generic, a connoisseur’s favor.
Napoleon regime collapsed, Europe remains more empire to flaunt their country, and status. The royal aristocrats of noble jewelry demand, but not after a new design change — in Nitot successors Jean Baptiste – fossin, under the leadership of the Chaumet after with the jewelry design style, and turn away from imperialist prevailing in the thick classical colour, instead, is concise line fruity, foiling GongBao, green treasure, diamond, as precious gems. Enamel, After using the leaves, flowers, butterflies, tendrils of rice, design topic, show the nature of ideology.
During the same period in southern France, New Orleans Derier zunjue (the) family began the silver and the gold inlaid jewellery, gradually to the society, the French society upper, maharajahs luxuries. In 1837, founder of wo3-based Louise Derier (1807-1874) in Paris Grands Boulevards and jewelry inlaid JinYinQi began the outlets. Due to the unique technique of family tradition and Louise Derier serious work, make Wendy jenn-air family deeply society.
Originated in the 1860s kadeya Cartier (front) than two later, but also strong. By the early 20th century, from Egypt to depend Cartier, Persian, Russia and east Ballets russes ballet (the) some design inspiration and style into more geometrical design and abstract design. In 1906, they began to rich color and some new materials, such as onyx, coral etc. Use to design, and formed a new artistic style. This kind of style is held in Paris in 1925, the international modern decoration and craft Art exhibition, known as “adornment Art Deco (Art).” From the famous kadeya and lead time of contemporary art.
Chaumet crown and elegant in the 1930s
The beginning of the 20th century, Chaumet jewelry is not only, also be the royal spoil the socialite gentleman necessary accessories. This period of Chaumet tiara popular, they mostly adopts the most popular platinum, Joe seems to be very fine, if not to crown jewel light show. In addition, it also further processing technology, gemstone cutting refining process flawless. Design, Chaumet attempt in nature, Japanese sakura ripping artistic inspiration also appeared in product design.
The jeweler in big kadeya war was at the top, but it is in the first world war ii and cocoa, under the double blow of summerly silence for 10 years. Then, cocoa, xianaier skill promoting “female boy” agitation, 1922 novel < > boy in women were described, the girl wear short hair, clothing, diet, men is the period of portraiture. This image let colorful traditional French style horsedrawn jewelry. In silence and not too long. The new change brewing design is important in 1924 Cartier depend for friends Cocteau famous poet Jean design of three gold ring, tricyclic kadeya surrounded by mutual friendship (platinum symbol together, loyalty (golden) and love (rose gold).
Then time into the 1930s, elegant style. This is typical of the 1930s, hats, with dress blouse, chest decoration, elegant skirt doublet and straight body, gloves and handbags — JiaKuiLin actress, drew buck was regarded as the most elegant in half a century, the female images in Paris. In the 1930s, using heavy beauty fashion jewelry Co., LTD, match with bare back in fashion design and special style, to build elegant aesthetic feeling.
This is a pursuit of elegant clothes and jewelry accessories in! People have tired of the boys in the imitation of 20 to pursue more affected, with the flavor of women. At this age, clothing accessories, handbags, become an unprecedented purse, cosmetic bag is the focus of fashion. Jewelry nature is more outstanding, gem brings to become adornment emphasis, but the design makes noble of summerly gem stones, no longer important modelled on adornment also took place.
“Less is more” naturalism and head again
In the 1950s, elegance and pop art started to influence the world. The world war ii years of experience in silence, fashion design in the 1950s and recovery, appeared A refreshing new look (new appearance) : long a-line doublet, fashion, DIOR) to master DIOR (the style and elegance fainthearted called “gentle dictator”. In the clothing and accessories for the design of light shine brightly, the artificial material, metal and plastic products. In the 1960s, is a reverse culture, the flower is the most main adornment, adopts the most is the shape of the exaggerated daisies. But in the past few jewelry using coconut tree brown and flax, beads and glass beads in fashion agitation of important position.
And after 20 years. Fashion into “expansion” period, this phenomenon is yuppie culture — the yuppie incomes and lifestyle needs to show off, yuppie attire is showing the expansion of the inevitable. The traditional gold jewellery by Italian K gold, silver, copper strong impact, aluminum, stainless steel etc were adopted gem stylist. People used to pay special attention to the value of material that the higher the value, the heavier weight of the precious jewelry, but at this generation, criterion more advertent jewelry design style, the connotation and characteristics.
Then, once popular in architectural art of “less is more” principle is used to modern jewelry design. The concise fluent line, the whole structure as the main design language. This time also conspicuous, and natural vigorous vitality: beautiful leaf, interesting shells, full of vigor and vitality sunflower, wonderful zebra grain… Have emerged in jewelry design. Example Chaumet present, such as the latest “live, if you love me, I” series, seiko is chiselled in fine carving vivid images of the spider web, and once again, the designer to communicate jewelry design theme of nature.
Posted: March 13th, 2010
at 3:34am by admin
Tagged with jewellery design shop
Categories: Asprey, Buccellati, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chopard, Everlon, Fashion, Fashion Jewellery, Fashion Model, diamond inscribing, earrings, fragrance
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De Beers cracking down on Everlon infringement
New York–De Beers is cracking down on companies creating designs that closely resemble its Everlon diamond jewelry. In an interview with National Jeweler on Wednesday, Sally Morrison, interim U.S. director in charge of the De Beers account at JWT, confirmed that De Beers’ new diamond designs–based on the Hercules knot and marketed as the “strength of love, forged in a knot”–as well as the name “Everlon,” are indeed trademarked. She said De Beers is going to defend its trademark, especially considering that sightholders and retailers are shouldering some of the cost of the program. “Of course we’re going to protect it,” Morrison said. “How are we going to protect it? We’re going to protect it legally.” The first stage of this legal defense is to send out cease-and-desist letters to any company De Beers learns is selling designs that could possibly infringe on Everlon. “We are aware that people have infringed, and there’s a process that has already started,” she said. Morrison would not disclose details on how many letters had been sent out or to what companies, but she did reveal that two companies that received such letters already have agreed to stop selling the offending designs. She added that she doesn’t believe all companies selling Everlon-like pieces are doing it out of “bad will,” but rather that there may be some confusion as to how this new program works. Unveiled in September, Everlon is De Beers’ latest “big idea,” intended to stimulate diamond jewelry sales as programs such as Journey and three-stone have done in the past. “That model has been around for a long time, very successfully, and everybody’s been a part of it,” Morrison said. Unlike past De Beers programs, however, Everlon is not open for everyone to duplicate. Sightholders and retailers who want to sell Everlon had to pay to have access to the designs and marketing materials, as well as a license to create their own designs based on the Everlon theme. Meanwhile, those who did not choose to participate in the program cannot create Everlon pieces as they might have done with programs such as Journey. This change, Morrison said, might have created some confusion in the marketplace. She added that when creating the program, De Beers did forsee that it might need to take legal action to protect Everlon. “We anticipated that it might be necessary, so we were ready and prepared to do it,” Morrison said. “We’ve been doing this a long time, and the trade is used to working with us in a particular way. It’s ingrained.” |

