Archive for the ‘fragrance’ Category

Open a French jewelry design history

Recently, a famous French jewelry brand Chaumet appeared in Shanghai, portman plaza opened its first store. The names of napoleon closely connected with the French royal jeweller has 200 years history, in order to make known as the crown jewels Chaumet senior representatives of the French top class gem with pride, and the craft’s Derier), kadeya zunjue (Cartier (advanced), raise the family jewels of all the French are important birthplace of adornment creed emotional appeal.

Chaumet at different periods of the museum collections, those significant changes in style, open a delicate France jewelry history. While in fashion, Chaumet between hub with afore-mentioned a few big brands, and advanced customization dress, firmly cemented Paris as the European and world three centuries of fashion centre.

To the ART DECO style from empire

The 1780s, young jewelry and horological production artisans, Mali, nieto etienne just created a jewelry in Paris, the predecessor of the Chaumet workshop. Because in making jewelry aspect, nieto talent in the mansion of 1802 napoleon was appointed to the royalty jeweller, his wonderful artical excelling nature “crown” is in this period. Josephine 1804 crowned queen napoleon, nieto gunsmith made famous for its branches of laurel crown after. It was later after many generic, a connoisseur’s favor.

Napoleon regime collapsed, Europe remains more empire to flaunt their country, and status. The royal aristocrats of noble jewelry demand, but not after a new design change — in Nitot successors Jean Baptiste – fossin, under the leadership of the Chaumet after with the jewelry design style, and turn away from imperialist prevailing in the thick classical colour, instead, is concise line fruity, foiling GongBao, green treasure, diamond, as precious gems. Enamel, After using the leaves, flowers, butterflies, tendrils of rice, design topic, show the nature of ideology.

During the same period in southern France, New Orleans Derier zunjue (the) family began the silver and the gold inlaid jewellery, gradually to the society, the French society upper, maharajahs luxuries. In 1837, founder of wo3-based Louise Derier (1807-1874) in Paris Grands Boulevards and jewelry inlaid JinYinQi began the outlets. Due to the unique technique of family tradition and Louise Derier serious work, make Wendy jenn-air family deeply society.

Originated in the 1860s kadeya Cartier (front) than two later, but also strong. By the early 20th century, from Egypt to depend Cartier, Persian, Russia and east Ballets russes ballet (the) some design inspiration and style into more geometrical design and abstract design. In 1906, they began to rich color and some new materials, such as onyx, coral etc. Use to design, and formed a new artistic style. This kind of style is held in Paris in 1925, the international modern decoration and craft Art exhibition, known as “adornment Art Deco (Art).” From the famous kadeya and lead time of contemporary art.

Chaumet crown and elegant in the 1930s

The beginning of the 20th century, Chaumet jewelry is not only, also be the royal spoil the socialite gentleman necessary accessories. This period of Chaumet tiara popular, they mostly adopts the most popular platinum, Joe seems to be very fine, if not to crown jewel light show. In addition, it also further processing technology, gemstone cutting refining process flawless. Design, Chaumet attempt in nature, Japanese sakura ripping artistic inspiration also appeared in product design.

The jeweler in big kadeya war was at the top, but it is in the first world war ii and cocoa, under the double blow of summerly silence for 10 years. Then, cocoa, xianaier skill promoting “female boy” agitation, 1922 novel < > boy in women were described, the girl wear short hair, clothing, diet, men is the period of portraiture. This image let colorful traditional French style horsedrawn jewelry. In silence and not too long. The new change brewing design is important in 1924 Cartier depend for friends Cocteau famous poet Jean design of three gold ring, tricyclic kadeya surrounded by mutual friendship (platinum symbol together, loyalty (golden) and love (rose gold).

Then time into the 1930s, elegant style. This is typical of the 1930s, hats, with dress blouse, chest decoration, elegant skirt doublet and straight body, gloves and handbags — JiaKuiLin actress, drew buck was regarded as the most elegant in half a century, the female images in Paris. In the 1930s, using heavy beauty fashion jewelry Co., LTD, match with bare back in fashion design and special style, to build elegant aesthetic feeling.

This is a pursuit of elegant clothes and jewelry accessories in! People have tired of the boys in the imitation of 20 to pursue more affected, with the flavor of women. At this age, clothing accessories, handbags, become an unprecedented purse, cosmetic bag is the focus of fashion. Jewelry nature is more outstanding, gem brings to become adornment emphasis, but the design makes noble of summerly gem stones, no longer important modelled on adornment also took place.

“Less is more” naturalism and head again

In the 1950s, elegance and pop art started to influence the world. The world war ii years of experience in silence, fashion design in the 1950s and recovery, appeared A refreshing new look (new appearance) : long a-line doublet, fashion, DIOR) to master DIOR (the style and elegance fainthearted called “gentle dictator”. In the clothing and accessories for the design of light shine brightly, the artificial material, metal and plastic products. In the 1960s, is a reverse culture, the flower is the most main adornment, adopts the most is the shape of the exaggerated daisies. But in the past few jewelry using coconut tree brown and flax, beads and glass beads in fashion agitation of important position.

And after 20 years. Fashion into “expansion” period, this phenomenon is yuppie culture — the yuppie incomes and lifestyle needs to show off, yuppie attire is showing the expansion of the inevitable. The traditional gold jewellery by Italian K gold, silver, copper strong impact, aluminum, stainless steel etc were adopted gem stylist. People used to pay special attention to the value of material that the higher the value, the heavier weight of the precious jewelry, but at this generation, criterion more advertent jewelry design style, the connotation and characteristics.

Then, once popular in architectural art of “less is more” principle is used to modern jewelry design. The concise fluent line, the whole structure as the main design language. This time also conspicuous, and natural vigorous vitality: beautiful leaf, interesting shells, full of vigor and vitality sunflower, wonderful zebra grain… Have emerged in jewelry design. Example Chaumet present, such as the latest “live, if you love me, I” series, seiko is chiselled in fine carving vivid images of the spider web, and once again, the designer to communicate jewelry design theme of nature.

Jewellery shop

jewellery design shop

The SHOP at SHOWstudio launches Headdress, an exhibition featuring work by Jordan Askill, Stephen Jones, Charlie Le Mindu, Nasir Mazhar, and Noki.

Examining the modern sculptural presence of this time-honored trend, the SHOP brings together a variety of theatrical headgear by five contemporary milliners. Perfectly balanced between art object and functional accessory, each piece in the show serves to demonstrate just how extensively this trend is being reinvented. Where Mazhar and Askill create gigantic, rigid sculptures rooted in art historical precedent, Le Mindu and Noki weave soft materials together to create shocking height and stature. Anchored against Jones’ quixotic but painstakingly crafted headpieces, the range of works in headdress afford the SHOP’s audience intimate access to the iconic objects of this season’s newest fascination.

In tandem and to compliment the headdress exhibition SHOWstudio will be broadcasting performances from the LIVEstudio in Bruton Place.

La Prairie Life Threads – Silver, Gold, Platinum (2009) – new aroma revie

After a actual adhesive aroma alleged Silver Rain with its antithesis of red fruits, caramel and amoroso beat like a blubbery anti-age face mask, La Prairie has appear a actual analytical set of 3 perfumes called afterwards added corrective ingredients. Silver, Gold and Platinum are actuality not for their actinic backdrop but because of their … declared corrective action. Like caviar and pearls, they are acclimated in big-ticket creams like those awash by la Prairie. Their aroma is a absolute angel of the academic audience of the Swiss brands. They are not avant-garde perfumes and not 100% aboriginal – all are a absorption of the accomplished and of the perfumes that were accepted 2 decades ago. The affluent white annual – tuberose from the Giorgio / Jardins de Bagatelle era, the rose patchouli chypre amber from Diva’s aureate age and the added abstruse (now) Cabochard an added bendable covering floral chypre 3 decades ago. Is La Prairie arena Dr.Freud with their affluent clients?

Silver offers an estimation of the archetypal tuberose affair from Fracas in a actual blooming ambrosial context. The tuberose becomes a archetypal gardenia with a able blooming styralil acetate aftereffect on top. It is beneath lactonic than Fracas and added fiery with a acidity that reminds me Gardenia Absolute from Goutal on a actual bendable musk-sandalwood-vanilla-lactonic base. Amid the 2 floral account there is a able blooming afraid of the valley-white rose-lily (salicylates). The white floral boutonniere is evocative of a appearance actual accepted in the 80’s and addition added contempo archetype with a lot of appearance is 3 Fleurs (Parfums d’Empire). Is Silver the aftereffect of a cantankerous pollination amid Ma Griffe and Fracas?.

Gold is addition avant-garde awakening estimation of an oriental blazon absolutely accepted in the 80’s and now begin in one aroma from Amouage. The rose-sandalwood-cinnamon accordance in a actual candied oriental ambience is archetypal like the floral boutonniere affluent in ylang and actual angled fruity addendum (peach, plum). It reminds me a angle from La Nuit (Paco Rabanne) or Gem (Van Cleef & Arpels) with its chypre rose clip note, but Gold is added oriental with a acceptable dosage of constructed sandalwood (80’s overdose), arenaceous addendum and incense. It is evocative of a aeon if fragrances were actual bizarre and perfumers approved to acquisition the absolute antithesis amid the chypre fruity and the amber ancestors for an balance of animal notes. Now, the rose-oud perfumes (Montale, Amouage) are accomplishing the same. Addition estimation of the agenda but with a greater emphasis on the rose is Lumière noire cascade femme.

Platinum rewrites the floral chypre covering agenda from Cabochard – Diorling with avant-garde capacity in a actual awakening interpretation. It is harder to appraise if this is a new conception or an old blueprint acclimatized to avant-garde needs. It is actual mossy dry with patchouli-vetiver-cedar, quinoleine covering notes, a actual bendable aerial ambery drydown. The affection is bedeviled by the ablaze jasmine and brownish blooming rose with the actual aesthetic methyl ionone amidst by a aerial asset base. The dry agenda of the dupe (almost smoke) is actual able-bodied assorted with the avant-garde jasmine estimation for an ash tray aftereffect (It is not Jasmin et cigarette but has an effect). If you like it, try Diorling even the avant-garde reformulation.

The perfumes are actual able-bodied composed with abundant absorption to data and addendum but are not actual original. For those who had never smelled the abstract or some alcove re-creations added afresh they could be a surprise. For me … it is a actual able-bodied accepted song.